Djurgården
This trail is for you outdoors-y types. We're kicking things off by walking along the scenic Strandvägen to take us across Djurgårdsbron to Djurgården. From there, we'll be circling the first half of the island - think of it like an introduction to Djurgården, though if you intend to explore more, then please go ahead. You can either return from Djurgårdstaden at the end by walking up Djurgårdsvägen and back over to Strandvägen, or you can go from the theme park, Grönalund.
Starting point: Strandvägen | Nearest subway station: Östermalmstorg (red line)
Finishing point: Breda Gatan | Nearest subway station: Östermalmstorg (red line). Alternatively, go to the bus and tram stop at Grönalund
Total time: 1 hour, 20 minutes. Mostly flat, some low hills and gravel paths.
Strandvägen
Kicking off our walk to Djurgården is the scenic route along Strandvägen, a boulevard that stretches along the water for a good kilometer or so. It’s also one of the city’s most prestiguous – and expensive! – streets, and a number of Swedish celebrities call it home. It wasn’t always like this though – historically, Östermalm was little more than a swamp, and was an undesirable area to live in. In the 1870s, King Oscar II wanted to redo the area into something great. Architects took their inspiration from Parisian boulevards and avenues, and the buildings that line the street vary in styles – from Renaissance to art nouveau and deco.
Directions: you’re heading towards Djurgårdsbron. Continue walking along Strandvägen until you see a bridge on your right – you can hardly miss it!
Djurgårdsbron
There are four bridges connecting Djurgården to the mainland, though Djurgårdsbron is probably the most well known. As you’re crossing the bridge, see if you can spot the bridge’s four guardians. Four old Norse gods stand on their own columns – Heimdall, Odin’s wife Frigg, Freyja, and Thor.
Once you’ve crossed the bridge, you’re looking to go through Blå Porten on your left – the blue port. It’s pretty hard to miss with its bright blue and gold paint! This was once the entrance to the King’s hunting park, but it will now take you on a walk by the water until our next destination.
As you’re walking, you might spot a few of the museums that also live on Djurgården. On your left about halfway to the Blå Porten, you should see the Nordic Museum on your left. We’ll leave it up to you as to whether you want to stop for a visit now or maybe on your way back, if at all – but we do think it’s worth going up to the entrance to have a look at the building itself just for the gothic architecture.
Directions: your next stop is a coffee stop at Flickorna Helin, about 850 metres away.
Flickorna Helin, Skånska Gruvan
What’s not to love about a fika place that looks like a set piece out of a Wes Anderson movie? It was built to look like an old mine, which is why it’s also known by its second name, the Skånska Gruvan (the Scanian mine). There’s usually plenty of options if you fancy something sweet, but there’s also savoury options more suitable for a lunch with their soups and salads. We like to buy some of their ‘must’ (a very traditional type of fermented drink, though it’s non-alcoholic) to take away for any later walking.
Address: Rosendalsvägen 14, 115 21 Stockholm
Directions: continue along Rosendalsvägen, away from the direction you came in from. When you reach a fork in the road, take the left to continue on Rosendalsvägen. Your next destination is on your left.
Rosendals slott
Rosendals slott was built back in 1820, and though it’s name includes the word for a palace, it was never a full-time royal residence. Instead, it was simply built to provide an escape from the rigidity of court life. Not too shabby, huh? Little inside or outside the palace has been changed since then, and during the summer months its open for guided tours.
Address: Rosendals slott, Rosendalsvägen 49, 115 21 Stockholm
Directions: Walk back to Rosendalsvägen. You’ll need to take a left onto Rosendalsterrassen. You’ll need to take the small path by the greenhouses across to Rosendals trädgård, about five minutes in.
Rosendals trädgård
Rosendals trädgård is something of a hidden oasis tucked away in the centre of the Djurgården island. If all that walking has made you hungry by now, no worries! The garden houses a wonderful cafe which uses organic and biodynamic ingredients, with many of them having been grown in the garden itself.
Address: Rosendalsterrassen 12, 115 21 Stockholm
Directions: return to Rosendalsterrassen, and continue along this road until you meet Sirishovsvägen. Turn left. It’s about a five minute walk to Djurgårdsvägen. Turn left onto Beckholmsvägen, and you’ll find Skroten Café on your right.
Skroten café och skeppshandel
Another hidden gem on this part of the island, we’ve come to Skroten café (literal translation: ‘Junkyard café’). It’s also a shipping trader’s, which explains why you might find yourself sitting around fishing nets, life vests, rudders and other tools and ship parts. That’s just all part of the atmosphere here. The food here is pretty rustic and simple Swedish fare – expect prawn sandwiches, berry pies, småkakor like chokladbollar and mazariner, and you’ll likely spot locals chowing down on the fish soup. A quiet little spot, you almost wouldn’t believe it lies behind Grönalund, the theme park!
Address: Beckholmsvägen 14, 115 21
Directions: continue along Beckholmsvägen, to Lilla Allmänna Gränd. Turn right onto Östra Varvsgatan, and then Breda Gatan will be on your left.
Breda gatan
Hidden away from the water behind the amusement park Grönalund, lies a small part of Djurgården called Djurgårdsstaden (Djurgårds town). Here you’ll find a number of streets that will take you back in time, with many buildings dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries. We recommend walking down Breda gatan (Broad street) and Långa gatan (Long street) in particular – just don’t tell us we Swedes don’t come up with particuarly imaginative street names, ok…?
Address: Breda gatan 7-5, 115 21 Stockholm
