Johan & Nyström

If you’re feeling like you need some energy to get you going, you’ve come to the right place for a caffeine fix. Johan & Nyström are masters of the cup of coffee. They roast their own beans, and you can even buy some to bring home with you. There’s a big focus on sustainability here, with the company heavily promoting buying good quality coffee for a fair price. No need to confess if you’re actually not a fan of coffee though, there’s also plenty of other choices of teas and cold drinks to keep you happy too. There’s also some lighter options for breakfast and lunch here, with the usual offerings for sandwiches and salads. Their pastries and buns are also all pretty good, but we’re going to be honest – it’s all about the coffee here.

Address: Hantverkargatan 7, 112 21 Stockholm

Directions: walk east on Hantverkargatan towards Skillinggränd. Stadshuset will be on your right.

Stadshuset

We start our trail by walking past Rådhuset – Stockholm’s City Hall, and is another example of the city’s most recognisable landmarks. Built from over eight million red bricks, Rådhuset plays host to the Nobel Prize banquet in the Blue Hall (only by name – the hall is actually…red). It’s another iconic building of Stockholm’s skyline with its spire featuring the three golden crowns, which is Sweden’s national emblem and on the coat of arms. The hall itself is open to the public through guided tours only, so you’ll need to book ahead if you want to go inside and go up the tower.

Address: Hantverkargatan 1, 112 21 Stockholm

Directions: Continue on Hantverkargatan, and cross Stadshusbron. Walk along the water on Klara Mälarstrand, and then turn right to cross Vasabron.

Vasabron

Stockholm is a city that floats on water. It’s made up of fourteen islands, and was known as Staden mellan broarna (‘the city between bridges’). Whilst you’re in no short supply of bridges and views of the water whilst in town, we love crossing Vasabron. Whilst crossing, you’ll have a great view of Riksdaget, Sweden’s houses of parliament, on your right. On your left, you’ll see a tiny islet that holds Strömsborg (Stream’s Castle).

Address: Vasabron, 111 28 Stockholm

Directions: once you’ve crossed the bridge, continue straight on Riddarhusgränd, and then turn right onto Riddarhustorget to take you to Riddarholmsbron, which will get you over to Riddarholmen. At this point, feel free to explore around Riddarholmen as much as you like.

Riddarholmen

Riddarholmen is another islet, though part of Gamla Stan. It’s home to Stockholm’s last remaining medieval church from the 13th century, and a number of beautiful old houses and palaces. You’ll find Wrangel Palace, which was the Royal family’s residential palace between the 17th and 18th centuries. The Stenbock Palace, also from the 17th century, is also worth a vist, if nothing else to take a picture in front of its distinctive salmon-coloured walls. Consider it a bit of an introduction to the beautiful architecture of Gamla Stan!

Address: Riddarholmen, 111 28 Stockholm

Directions: get back to Riddarholmsbron. Keep to the right on Riddarhustorget, and take a right onto Storkyrkobrinken. Turn right onto Prästgatan.

Prästgatan

Gamla Stan has absolutely no shortage of lovely streets to take photographs on. However, it can be quite cramped, unless you happen to visit during an off-season when things quieten down a little (although it’s all relative with a tourist hotspot like Gamla Stan). If you’re looking for a recommendation on a quieter street, Prästgatan is one of our favourites to take a snap or two without constantly battling confused tourists from ruining your shot.

Address: Prästgatan, 111 60 Stockholm

Directions: depending on how far you’ve gone down Prästgatan, you’ll want to either go up or down to find Kåkbrinken. From there, turn left to get to Stortorget. If you suddenly find yourself beside lots of other people, particularly tourists, you’ve probably found the place!

Stortorget

Stortorget is the central square of Gamla Stan, and the city’s oldest, having changed little since the medieval ages. If you’ve seen any photos of old buildings in Stockholm, then its probably from Stortorget. On the west side are some of the square’s most iconic buildings, each in a distinctive colour – green, red, orange and yellow. The red house is called the Ribbinska huset (the House of Ribbing), and was built in the 15th century. Don’t let its pretty architecture fool you, as each of the white bricks scattered throughout the red facade supposedly represent the heads of murdered Swedish nobles! Some people think the white bricks (which were added much later after the building was originally built, in 1628) symbolise the decapitated heads of the 82 Swedish nobles who were killed by the Danish King in 1520.

Address: Stortorget, 111 29 Stockholm

Directions: walk east across Stortorget, to Källargränd. Walk onto Köpmangatan, and turn right onto Själagårdsgatan. Our nex stop, Under Kastanjen, will be on your right.

Under Kastanjen

The café Under Kastanjen (literal translation: Under the chestnut) lies right in the heart of Gamla Stan and, like its name implies, sits in a square, covered by a chestnut tree. In this cosy spot you’ll find great fika and lunch options – from simple salads and soups, to the Swedish classics of meatballs and mash, or waffles and pancakes with sylt (our version of jam). They also specialise in gluten-free and lactose-free options. Whether you’re making a proper stop or just grabbing something on the go, we definitely recommend exploring the side streets around the place – you’ll find yet more beautiful townhouses to dream of living in.

Address: Under Kastanjen, Kindstugatan 1, 111 31 Stockholm

Directions: Continue down on Själagårdsgatan towards Tyska skolgränd. Take a small left, and then right onto Södra Benickebrinken. Walk down Tullgränd, and turn left onto Skeppsbron. Our next stop, Bröd & Salt, is on your right, by the water.

Bröd & Salt Skeppsbron

A chain of bakeries across Stockholm, Bröd & Salt concentrate on quality ingredients and bake all their own goods in their stone ovens. They make solid cardamom and cinnamon buns, and if you fancy something that’s more suitable for a lunch, they sell pizzas by the slice and the toppings change fairly frequently. There’s nothing overly fancy here – just good coffee and food, with a gorgeous view over the water.

Address: Tullhus, Skeppsbron 3, 111 30 Stockholm

Directions: Continue north on Skeppsbrokajen, and cross over Strömbron. You’ll want to turn right to continue over Södra Blasieholmshamnen.

Strömkajen

There’s little to point out here, other than the gorgeous views! Hope you brought your camera. Blasieholmen is home to a number of iconic, luxury hotels, so you’ll see a number of opulent hotel buildings on one side, and the lovely skyline of Gamla Stan on the other. You can either finish the trail here, or if you don’t mind the walk there and back, you can continue on to Skeppsholmen and Kastellholmen (our next and official final stop) which is about fifteen-twenty minutes away, one-way.

Address: Strömkajen, 111 48 Stockholm

Directions: Continue along Södra Blasieholmshamnen to cross Skeppsholmsbron. Walk down the main road Svensksundsvägen, all the way down to Kastellholmsbron. Kastellet lies on Örlogsvägen, on your left.

Kastellholmen

Kastellholmen is another small island, and is technically an extension of Skeppsholmen, which you walked through to get here. The ‘crown’ of Kastellholmen, if you will, is Kastellet, a bright red naval fort that sits on a hill in the center of the island. Ever since its completion in the 17th century, a forked Swedish flag flies from its top, signifying whether or not the country is at peace. When the navy left the fort in the 90s, they tried to end this practice, but it only lasted three days after heavy protests from Stockholmers. After that little incident, a marine comes to Kastellholmen every day, twice a day to raise the flag in the morning and take it down at night.

Address: Kastellholmen, 111 49 Stockholm

Karlaplan

We start things off at Karlplan station, and right outside sits the park gives the station its namesake. During WW1, the park was used to grow vegetables to assist in the war effort. August Strindberg, the playwright, lived on Karlaplan for a few years, and to this day, Karlaplan is one of the most expensive addresses in the city. These days, there’s usually not much going on here, and that’s why it’s a pretty good introduction to this calmer part of Stockholm.

Address: Karlaplan 115 20 Stockholm

Directions: At Karlaplan, take the first exit onto Lützengatan. Turn right onto Tysta gatan.

Tysta Gatan

If you like European architecture, you’ll like Tysta gatan. It’s name translates to ‘quiet street’, though we’d argue you could apply that name to the whole of Östermalm, especially if you’re visiting in the summer! If you’re after the old school vibes of Gamla Stan without the crowds, this is the perfect street for taking some pictures of the beautiful architecture in some relative peace and quiet.

Address: Tysta gatan, 115 20 Stockholm

Directions: Return to Lützengatan. At Karlaplan, take the 3rd exit onto Karlavägen. Tössebageriet will be on your right, about 5 minutes walk.

Tössebageriet

This bakery has been on Karlavägen since the 1920s, and there’s something fitting about the classic sweet treats they concentrate on making here. If you happen to visit around ‘Fettisdagen’ in February, Tössebageriet’s semlor frequently hit various ‘Best of’ lists in Stockholm every year. They’re also the inventor of the semmelwrap – a semla reimagined as a kebab wrap!

Address: Tössebageriet, Karlavägen 77, 114 49 Stockholm

Directions: continue up Karlavägen, about eight minutes walk. The park is on the other side of the road, on your left.

Humlegården

The word ‘humle’ might suggest it’s name has something to do with bumblebees (‘humlor’ in Swedish), but it’s actually a bit of a false friend. Humlegården was once the Royal Fruit garden, and it’s name refers to the hops (‘humle’) that were grown here. Now it’s super popular with the locals. You’ll see office works eating their lunch here, young families taking their kids out for a play, and plenty of dogs sniffing about. It’s one of our favourite spots in all of Stockholm, in any season. Have a picnic or relax on a bench in spring and summer, enjoy walking through a riot of oranges and reds in autumn, and if it’s snowing in winter, take plenty of pictures!

Address: Karlavägen 32, 114 31 Stockholm

Directions: your next stop is Fabrique. Walk through the park down to the Royal Library where Sturegatan on the edge of the park meets Humlegårdsgatan. Turn left onto Humlegårdsgatan. A few minutes down lies Fabrique, on the right.

Fabrique

You might already be familiar with Fabrique – they’ve got bakeries dotted around Stockholm, as well as a few international locations in New York and London. But, they’re on the list because their bakes are pretty damn good. Anything made from their sourdough is usually worth the effort, and their cardamom buns hold up to other bakeries.

Address: Fabrique, Humlegårdsgatan 9, 114 46 Stockholm

Directions: Continue down Humlegårdsgatan. Turn right onto Nybrogatan.

Östermalms Saluhall

Östermalms Saluhall (Market Hall) is something of a crown jewel in the neighbourhood, and has lived on Östermalmstorg since 1888. Many of its traders have been here for generations, and you may even spot a Swedish celebrity or two doing their weekly shop here. If you’re after fika or something more casual, we highly recommend Panisano (their blueberry custard buns are amazing!), or Paula’s (if you’re after something savoury, try their grilled croissants).

Address: Östermalms Saluhall, Östermalmstorg, 114 39 Stockholm

Directions: walk back to Fabrique on Humlegårdsgatan. Turn left onto Greve Turegatan. To get to Strandvägen from Greve Turegatan, continue down the latter, and turn left onto Birger Jarlsgatan. Strandvägen lies at the end, on your left.

Greve Turegatan to Strandvägen

We’ll always struggle to pinpoint a favourite street in Östermalm, and if you have the chance to, we’d highly recommend going off this beaten path (trail?), and explore a little for yourself. Greve Turegatan has a bit more buzz for Östermalm, with plenty of bars, cafés and restaurants.

Birger Jarlsgatan houses the serious designer shops in Stockholm, from Gucci to Louis Vuitton and many more. It’s named after Birger Jarl, the statesman who’s generally named as the man who founded Stockholm back in 1250.

Strandvägen is another famous part of Östermalm. This boulevard is one of Stockholm’s most exclusive and expensive addresses, and many Swedish celebrities live in the luxurious buildings that line the street along the water.

Address: Greve Turegatan, Birger Jarlsgatan, Strandvägen, Stockholm

Directions: continue along Strandvägen until you see Grevgatan on your left. Continue up Grevgatan away from the water, until you can turn left onto Storgatan. The Hedvig Eleonora kyrkan will be on your left.

Hedvig Eleonora Kyrkan

Another one of Stockholm’s Wes Anderson-like buildings, the Hedvig Eleonora church takes its name from the Queen of Sweden (1636 – 1715). If the weather’s being kind, we quite like escaping the buzz of the main shopping streets like Biblioteksgatan by coming here and taking a breather in the church grounds.

Address: Storgatan 2, 114 51 Stockholm 41 Stockholm

Directions: continue up Storgatan. Turn right onto Sibyllegatan, and after about 150 metres, turn left onto Linnégatan.

Bageriet Kringlan

We’re ending as we started – in a fairly sleepy spot of Östermalm, lies Bageriet Kringlan. They’ve been here on Linnégatan since 1923, and you can expect the typical, traditional Swedish goods here, both sweet and savoury. You can never go wrong with a slice of their blueberry pie when it’s available, and we’re definitely coming back here for semla season. Maybe because they grate an obscene amount of mandelmassa into their semlor…Maybe.

Address: Bageriet Kringlan, Linnégatan 25-23, 114 47

Stadion

Kick off the trail at Stadion station. If you arrived by taking the subway, hopefully your day was brightened by this colourful station. The station was one of the city’s first ‘cave’ stations, where the station was built into the rock. The rainbow design aimed to bring the outside sky to the underground, and to call back to the area’s significance in sport history – close by is Stadion, the site of the 1922 Olympics.

Valhallavägen is one of inner Stockholm’s longest roads, at 3532 metres long, and yes, the name is indeed related to Sweden’s old Norse mythology. How busy the area gets depends quite a bit on when you visit, and if the students are in town. On the way, you’ll be passing by some of Stockholm’s gymnasiums (college, give or take) and university campuses.

Address: Valhallavägen, 114 41 Stockholm

Directions: your next stop is Bullar & Bröd, which lies higher up on Valhallavägen, number 65 on your right.

Bullar&Bröd Stenugns­bageri

Just after the Kugliga Tekniska Högskolan (known as just KTH to the locals) lies the quiet Bullar&Bröd Stegugnsbageri. All their bakes and sweet treats come from the stone oven (stenugn), and they’re big on choosing ecological products for their creations. If you’re after something sweet, we recommend sticking with a traditional cardamom bun (they’re usually big enough to share between two!), but if you’re after something a bit more savoury for a breakfast or lunch, you can’t go wrong with their topped sourdough toasts, with most of the topping choices being vegetarian-friendly. It’s the perfect place to cool off for a bit if you’ve come on a sunny day, as Valhallavägen isn’t the most shaded of spots.

Address: Vallhallavägen 65, 114 41 Stockholm

Directions: turn left onto Odengatan. It’s a 10-12 minute walk to Stockholm Public Library, which will sit on your left.

Stockholm Public Library

Stadsbiblioteket is the main branch of Stockholm’s public library system, and has one of the most dinstictive buildings in the city, built in a style known as “Swedish Grace” where decorative shapes were reduced to their most basic forms. As beautiful as the colour of the sunset orange walls are on its outside, we also recommend actually going inside too! As it’s a public library entry is free – just remember to be quiet and respectful to those working inside!

Address: Sveavägen 73, 113 80 Stockholm

Directions: Continue down Odengatan and turn left at Norrtullsgatan. Your next stop is Café Pascal, which will be on your left.

Café Pascal

Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of Odenplan lies the quiet little Café Pascal. Well, we say quiet…it’s a popular place so it can get pretty busy at times! But it’s understandble once you’ve visited, or if you’ve even taken a peek at their instagram. Their tagline is ‘good coffee, good ingredients and craft’, and we couldn’t agree more. Their savoury baked goods are just as delicious as their sweet ones, so if you’re feeling brave, try the sliced egg and Kalles (fish egg spread – don’t knock it till you’ve tried it!) sandwich. Or, if you’re not hungry just yet, maybe grab something to go as our next destination is a park.

Address: Café Pascal, Norrtullsgatan 4, 113 29 Stockholm

Directions: immediately after Café Pascal, turn left onto Sandåsgatan. Take the stairs up and you’re in the Observatorielunden park. If you take the trail to your left, you can walk through the park and see the Observatory listed next.

Observatorie­lunden & Stockholm Observatory

Observatorielunden is up there on our list of favourite parks in the city. For one, it’s a quiet little oasis that seems far removed from the hustle and bustle right beside it. Two, you can get some great views up from the hill. As the name of the park implies, it’s also home to the Stockholm Observatory, crowning the park’s hilltop with it’s castle-like building. The observatory was once home to Sweden’s prime meridian, until Greenwich took over as the world’s standard in the 19th century. There’s also a metereological station that’s been measuring the temperature daily since 1756, and still does today – the oldest continuous temperature record in the world.

Address: Drottninggatan, 113 60 Stockholm

Directions: wherever you’re exiting out of the park, we recommend going towards Drottninggatan, south-east of the obsevatory. Then it’s a good 12-15 minute walk down Drottninggatan. Turn right at Olof Palmes gatan. Turn left onto Klara Norra kyrkogata, and Vete-katten will be across the road on Kungsgatan, number 55.

Vete-katten

Vete-Katten is one of the most iconic cafes in all of Stockholm, and it’s considered a Stockholm institution as much as a fika place. And how can it not be, when its name translates to ‘wheat cat’, or ‘the cat knows’? Vete-Katten was founded back in 1928, by Ester Nordhammer and truth be told, it feels like the decor hasn’t been changed since then. Visiting the Vete-Katten is like taking a step back in time amongst the labyrinth of corridors and rooms. The Vete-Katten name now includes a few locations across the city, but this is the original, and no visit to Norrmalm would be complete without it.

Address: Kungsgatan 55, 111 22 Stockholm

Directions: Your next stop is Stockholm Concert Hall. Turn right out of Vete-katten, and continue up Kungsgatan. Turn right onto Hötorget, and the concert hall will be on your left.

Stockholm Concert Hall

Stockholm’s Konserthus is one of the most recognisable buildings in town, not in the least for it’s bright blue colour. Built in 1926 with its temple-like design taking inspiration from Athens itself, it houses Stockholm’s Royal Philarmonic Orchestra, and hosts the Nobel Prize Award Ceremony, as well as around 200 concerts per year. The structure of the building was unique at the time, since all classes of society would enter through the same doors to get to their seats.

Address: Hötorget 8, 103 87 Stockholm

Directions: walk down Hötorget to Sergelgatan. Continue all the way down to Sergel’s Torg. You can use Sergelgången to take you straight into NK. Otherwise, you’ll need to go around Sergel’s Torg to cross over to Hamngatan on the left.

Nordiska Kompaniet

And now we’ve reached the end of this trail. Finishing us off is a visit to Nordiska Kompaniet (NK for short), one of the most famous department stores in Sweden, and probably wins the prize for being the most beautiful. Opened in 1915, it’s renowned for its impressive architecture, its rotating neon clock sign, as well as its luxurious insides where you’ll find top Swedish and international brands selling furniture, fashion, cosmetics and much more. If you haven’t already had your fix of feasting or you’re just not much of a shopper, we still recommend ending the day by visiting the NK Market Hall on the bottom floor.

Address: Hamngatan 18-20, 111 47 Stockholm

• Bullar
• Kakor
• Tårtor och bakelser
• Småkakor
• Dammsugare
• Biskvi

Bullar

Ah, bullar. The quintessential Swedish pastry. Traditional fillings include cinnamon, cardamom, vanilla, almond or even a combination. They might look somewhat similar to an American cinnamon roll, but they’re usually not as sweet, and no…there’s (usually) no icing here. Instead, you might find pearl sugar (also known as nib sugar) sprinkled on top.

However, nowadays there’s many more variants on the humble bulle – there’s sockerbullar (sugar buns) or solbullar (sun buns) which are filled with a vanilla custard and rolled in sugar, fruit-based buns like rabarber-bullar (rhubarb buns) and blåbärs-bullar (blueberry buns) and countless more than we could fit in. The short story? You can never go wrong with a bulle alongside your coffee.

There’s also a few special seasonal varieties, such as the semla. In Sweden, Shrove Tuesday is known as ‘fettisdagen’ (literally…’fat day’), and instead of pancakes, we eat semlor. They’re normally made of a cardamom bun that’s had it’s top cut off and then been hollowed out. Inside, they’re stuffed with a filling of marzipan, cream and the scraped-out bun filling. They’re then topped with more cream, and the top is put back on like a little hat.

Kakor

Kaka (cake) can mean a few different things to Swedes, depending on the specifics. If you’re thinking of the equivalent of say a sponge cake, then Swedes refer to this as ‘mjuk kaka’ (literal translation: soft cake).

One popular mjuk kaka often served at home for fika is sockerkaka (literal translation: sugar cake). Families often have their own recipe, but it’s typically made from flour, sugar, butter, baking powder, and a whole lot of eggs. It’s also often used as the base layers for a tårta, which we’ll get to in just a bit.

Another famous kaka is kladdkaka (literal translation: sticky cake). You might also see it translated as mud cake, since it’s a rich chocolate cake that has a crackly top and a gooey inside. Think of slightly underbaked brownies in a cake tin, and you’ve basically got a kladdkaka.

Tårtor & bakelser

Tårtor are usually differentiated from a kaka, though they’re usually both translated to cake in English. The details tend to lie in the complexity of baking a ‘tårta’, which is the name normally given to cakes that have layers of sponge and filling, as well as being decorated (with whipped cream, or marzipan, or icing, and so on). They’re often served for more special occasions of fika, like a birthday or your nameday.

One of the most well known tårtor is the princesstårta (literal translation: princess cake). Recipes vary, but typically the cake is made up of the following (going from bottom to top):

• a sponge base
• jam (raspberry is traditional!)
• another sponge layer
• vanilla custard
• yet another sponge layer
• whipped cream
• another thin layer of sponge (this is sometimes skipped)
• green marzipan (phew, we made it!)

Green marzipan is what signifies it as a princesstårta. If the marzipan is yellow, it’s known as a princetårta (prince cake), and if it’s pink, it’s called operatårta (opera cake).

A bakelser, on the other hand, is a tårta made in a single portion. Bakelser differs from a slice of a tårta, which would just be a tårtbit (cake bit). Therefore, a tårta might exist in both formats -as a whole tårta (intended for a group of people…though who are we to judge?) and a bakelser.

Småkakor

Småkakor (literal translation: small cakes) are a collective name for small biscuit-like baked goods that are made from a type of ‘mother’ dough called ‘mördeg’ (literal translation: tender dough), typically made up of flour, water, sugar, and butter. Think of them like the Swedish equivalent to biscuits, cookies, biscotti, and so on. They’re typically cute and small enough to eat in one or two bites. From that base dough, you can make many, many variations of småkakor – some are filled, some are plain, some are more decorated. They’re very commonly baked for fika at home, but you can also find bags of them for sale in most Swedish bakeries. Most importantly though, they’re all delicious.

Dammsugare

First things first, dammsugare means hoover. Yes, really. And yes, the Swedish word for hoover translates literally as ‘dust-sucker’. We’re quite a blunt language. They are usually made up of crushed biscuits, butter and cocoa powder that’s been mixed together, covered in marzipan, and dipped in chocolate. They’re also known as punschrullar (punch rolls) if they contain punsch liqueur. Their name not only refers to their appearance of older models of hoovers, but from the supposed practice of using up leftover biscuit crumbs in a bakery. They’re often a bit of a marmite-sweet treat, but we recommend giving them a go at least once, so that you know yourself if you love them or hate them!

Biskvi

Biskvi are another small pastry that’s made of an almond macaron-like bottom, filled with a vanilla buttercream, and covered in a thin layer of (usually) chocolate. A variant called the Sarah-Bernandt biskvi (named after the French actress) swaps out the buttercream for a chocolate truffle filling. You’ll also find other versions, like white chocolate, raspberry and yes, of course…liquorice biskvier.

You can often find the normal (palm-sized) and mini biskvi (tea-spoon sized!) these days in bakeries…the only danger is eating too many of them.

The story of fika is closely tied to Sweden’s history with coffee, which was introduced into the country in the late 17th century. However, it was primarily only a drink for the very wealthy. Back then, coffee was something of a luxury – half a kilo of coffee was equivalent to a year’s salary for a farm worker!

However, coffee began to spread in popularity throughout the country – in part because it was banned no less than five times between the 18th and 19th centuries. This was due to fears around its addictiveness, and a general impression that it was frivolous for the population to spend money on foreign, imported products. Unfortunately for the King and the politicans who implemented these bans, it had the opposite effect. Coffee and Sweden are a great example of people really wanting what they can’t have.

In the 19th century, coffee became more affordable, and its popularity increased further, regardless of class or rank. At the same time, Swiss migrants opened up Schweizerier (a style of bakery). As a result, Swedes started to enjoy drinking coffee alongside something sweet. This trend spread like wildfire, particularly at home. Whilst men more frequently visited coffee shops, it was unseemly for them to gorge on lots of cake. However, there was no such rule for women! It was a popular way for women to show off their skills as a good hostess by having coffee and cake parties at home…and the more cake, the better!

Kaffi to fika

The word fika itself comes from what Swedes refer to as back-street slang. In the 19th century, people used the words ‘kaffe’ and ‘kaffi’ interchangably for the word ‘coffee’. Overtime, the word kaffi split into two syllables, and then reversed. Eventually, it dropped the second ‘f’ to become the word ‘fika’ we know today. Kaffe is now the Swedish word for coffee, but some places still spell it as ‘kaffi’.

Seven types of cake

The trend of something sweet alongside your coffee cemented itself Swedish culture by the publication of the hugely influential Sju Sorters Kakor in 1945 to celebrate the end of rationing.

Its title translates to ‘Seven types of cake’, and is the best selling cookbook of all time in Sweden still to this day. The title is based on the recommendation of seven cakes being ideal for your fika party. If you serve more than seven, you’re a snob, or a show-off. But, if you serve fewer than seven, you’re stingy…

It doesn’t mean you have to have seven types of cake, of course. But maybe you could keep it in mind… you know, for that fika where you go all out. Just remember to send us an invite!

Pronounced ‘fee-ka’, it tends to be synonymous with drinking coffee (or tea) alongside something to eat (usually sweet).

Swedes prefer not to translate the word fika. They don’t want it to lose significance and become a mere coffee break.

— sweden.se, part of the Swedish Institute.

That being said, scoffing a muffin with your to-go coffee on your rushed morning commute wouldn’t really fit what we’re going for here. This is reflected in the language that’s built up around the concept of fika – a fikapaus (fika-pause), kafferast (coffee-rest) or fikarast (fika-rest).

But, when it comes to fika, there’s no real hard and fast rules. If you prefer having something savoury and accidentally have your fikapaus turn into a lazy lunch, nobody will mind. Or you’re sneaking in a coffee break with your colleagues in between those boring meetings. Maybe you’re having a morning cup of coffee and doom-scrolling on Twitter before leaving for work. You say you were drinking coffee and ate a whole tin of pepparkakor with friends after midnight last night? Yeah, you guessed it – that still counts.

Want the TL:DR? In short, fika is so important to us Swedes because it’s a chance to take a break and enjoy the moment. Whether that’s with or without company, with something to eat or not – we leave that up to you!

Strandvägen

Kicking off our walk to Djurgården is the scenic route along Strandvägen, a boulevard that stretches along the water for a good kilometer or so. It’s also one of the city’s most prestiguous – and expensive! – streets, and a number of Swedish celebrities call it home. It wasn’t always like this though – historically, Östermalm was little more than a swamp, and was an undesirable area to live in. In the 1870s, King Oscar II wanted to redo the area into something great. Architects took their inspiration from Parisian boulevards and avenues, and the buildings that line the street vary in styles – from Renaissance to art nouveau and deco.

Directions: you’re heading towards Djurgårdsbron. Continue walking along Strandvägen until you see a bridge on your right – you can hardly miss it!

Djurgårdsbron

There are four bridges connecting Djurgården to the mainland, though Djurgårdsbron is probably the most well known. As you’re crossing the bridge, see if you can spot the bridge’s four guardians. Four old Norse gods stand on their own columns – Heimdall, Odin’s wife Frigg, Freyja, and Thor.

Once you’ve crossed the bridge, you’re looking to go through Blå Porten on your left – the blue port. It’s pretty hard to miss with its bright blue and gold paint! This was once the entrance to the King’s hunting park, but it will now take you on a walk by the water until our next destination.

As you’re walking, you might spot a few of the museums that also live on Djurgården. On your left about halfway to the Blå Porten, you should see the Nordic Museum on your left. We’ll leave it up to you as to whether you want to stop for a visit now or maybe on your way back, if at all – but we do think it’s worth going up to the entrance to have a look at the building itself just for the gothic architecture.

Directions: your next stop is a coffee stop at Flickorna Helin, about 850 metres away.

Flickorna Helin, Skånska Gruvan

Address: Rosendalsvägen 14, 115 21 Stockholm

Directions: continue along Rosendalsvägen, away from the direction you came in from. When you reach a fork in the road, take the left to continue on Rosendalsvägen. Your next destination is on your left.

Rosendals slott

Rosendals slott was built back in 1820, and though it’s name includes the word for a palace, it was never a full-time royal residence. Instead, it was simply built to provide an escape from the rigidity of court life. Not too shabby, huh? Little inside or outside the palace has been changed since then, and during the summer months its open for guided tours.

Address: Rosendals slott, Rosendalsvägen 49, 115 21 Stockholm

Directions: Walk back to Rosendalsvägen. You’ll need to take a left onto Rosendalsterrassen. You’ll need to take the small path by the greenhouses across to Rosendals trädgård, about five minutes in.

Rosendals trädgård

Rosendals trädgård is something of a hidden oasis tucked away in the centre of the Djurgården island. If all that walking has made you hungry by now, no worries! The garden houses a wonderful cafe which uses organic and biodynamic ingredients, with many of them having been grown in the garden itself.

Address: Rosendalsterrassen 12, 115 21 Stockholm

Directions: return to Rosendalsterrassen, and continue along this road until you meet Sirishovsvägen. Turn left. It’s about a five minute walk to Djurgårdsvägen. Turn left onto Beckholmsvägen, and you’ll find Skroten Café on your right.

Skroten café och skeppshandel

Another hidden gem on this part of the island, we’ve come to Skroten café (literal translation: ‘Junkyard café’). It’s also a shipping trader’s, which explains why you might find yourself sitting around fishing nets, life vests, rudders and other tools and ship parts. That’s just all part of the atmosphere here. The food here is pretty rustic and simple Swedish fare – expect prawn sandwiches, berry pies, småkakor like chokladbollar and mazariner, and you’ll likely spot locals chowing down on the fish soup. A quiet little spot, you almost wouldn’t believe it lies behind Grönalund, the theme park!

Address: Beckholmsvägen 14, 115 21

Directions: continue along Beckholmsvägen, to Lilla Allmänna Gränd. Turn right onto Östra Varvsgatan, and then Breda Gatan will be on your left.

Breda gatan

Hidden away from the water behind the amusement park Grönalund, lies a small part of Djurgården called Djurgårdsstaden (Djurgårds town). Here you’ll find a number of streets that will take you back in time, with many buildings dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries. We recommend walking down Breda gatan (Broad street) and Långa gatan (Long street) in particular – just don’t tell us we Swedes don’t come up with particuarly imaginative street names, ok…?

Address: Breda gatan 7-5, 115 21 Stockholm

Fern & Fika

We’re starting off our trail at the lovely Fern & Fika. Previously known as STHLM Raw, this plant-based cafe serves up all kinds of raw-based fika and lunch treats. Even if you’re not plant-based yourself, it’s difficult to deny that their treats look like miniature pieces of artwork. If you’re starting off the day nice and early, you can’t go wrong with one of their classic avocado sandwiches. If you fancy something sturdier, their weekly soup bowls will keep you full. They aim to be sustainable by reducing their use of plastics, and concentrate on using organic and seasonal ingredients.

Address: Fern & Fika, Långholmsgatan 11, 117 33 Stockholm

Directions: Walk south on Långholmsgatan towards Folkskolegatan. Turn left onto Hornsgatan.

Hornsgatan

Hornsgatan is one of the main roads of Södermalm, stretching from Hornstull to Slussen, just before the connecting bridges over to Gamla Stan. It’s also one of the area’s busiest, and you’ll find plenty of shops, bars, restaurants, cafés, night clubs, and whatever else the whole way down. If you’re into fashion, this’ll be your place to explore – you’ll find everything from the uber contemporary boutique to the specialist vintage store.

Address: Hornsgatan, Stockholm

Directions: continue down Hornsgatan, down to Mariatorget. Turn left onto Torkel Knutssonsgatan. Turn right onto Bastugatan, which will take onto Monteliusvägen on the left. Continue through Olle Adolphsons park to get to Mariaberget.

Monteliusvägen & Mariaberget

Hopefully you aren’t sick of beautiful views just yet, because here’s some more for you. Monteliusvägen offers some spots for a panoramic view over the water and across Stockholm’s skyline. Make sure you’ve got your camera ready!

Address: Monteliusvägen, 118 25 Stockholm | Mariaberget, Monteliusvägen, 118 25 Stockholm, Sweden

Directions: From Monteliusvägen, turn right onto Blecktornsgrändd. Continue walking down to Mariatorget. Turn left onto Sankt Paulsgatan. Continue onto Urvädersgränd, and carry on until it becomes Mosebacke Torg. Finally, turn right onto Svartensgatan.

Svartensgatan, Fiskargatan

A small detour on the way, just to take you back in time. The cobbled streets and traditional wooden houses give you a glimpse into what Södermalm used to look like, before all the cranes and construction set in. The name for fiskargatan dates all the way back 1646! Most of the houses are from the 18th and 19th centuries.

Address: Svartensgatan, Stockholm

Directions: Walk south on Östgötagatan towards Högbergsgatan. Turn left onto Högbergsgatan.

Katarina Kyrkan

Katarina Kyrkan is named after Princess Catherine, mother of King Charles X of Sweden. The original building was built in 1656–1695. Since then, the church has been reconstructed twice, after being destroyed by fires. If you step off the trail slightly, you’ll find similarly fairy-tale like streets as on Svartensgatan.

Address: Högbergsgatan 13A, 116 20 Stockholm

Directions: walk through the park to Nytorgsgatan, and turn left onto Folkungagatan. This final part will take about half an hour. Continue left on Folkungagatan, and cross the zebra crossing. Stay on the right side, along the water, and you will see Fotografiska on your right.

Fotografiska

We end the trail at Fotografiska – the largest photography museum in the world. Normally our philosophy is to let you decide whether you stop at a museum that’s along a trail or not, but we’re making a slight exception to recommend visiting Fotografiska especially. Housed in a former warehouse, the museum features both world-famous and emerging photographers’ work. Exhibitions change regularly, usually with at least three on at any given time. If you’re tuckered out from the walk and the exhbitions, Fotografiska also has a lovely restaurant at the top floor with phenomenal views.

Address: Stadsgårdshamnen 22, 116 45 Stockholm